How is ice climbing a different or similar experience from rock climbing?

As a 45+ year ice and rock climber I have to say there are similarities yet some vast differences. First of all 75% of the rock climbing gear, ropes and clothing won’t be applicable to ice climbing. Basic belaying, knot tying, comfort at heights and understanding the dynamics of a rope’s protection will apply. In rock climbing the rope and belayer are the primary link to protect a fall. In ice climbing, falls are freaky dangerous due to all the sharp objects necessary, the ice axes and crampons are the primary self belay devices. The rope and gear is in place to prevent death after all hell already failed. Catching a crampon or ice axe during a fall will almost certainly result in broken ankles, dislocations, fractures, severely pulled muscles, potential loss of digits and limbs, etc.

My brother (Ron Brunckhorst) and I have participated in mixed route climbing, where rock and ice climbing are combined to succeed. We’ve also climbed rarely formed, extremely thin ice cords. Some 10–14 inch wide by 6–8 inch thick cords are extremely delicate to nearly unusable. These climbs have to be approached with delicacy in mind. The leader is always alert to a deeper, ice filled crack or rock hardware placements within reach. Carrying the gear one may need is combersome and heavy. Typically these thin cords are found on dead vertical cliffs with subtle overhangs to negotiate. Protection becomes so essential as one may expect to fall a time or two working out the route. Frozen moss clumps are often the only decent pick hooks available between real ice threads. Waiting for such climbs to form can require years of patience. When the climb does form, catching it in the precise climbable conditions can be elusive. Warm ice may not provide 8 inches of ice the strength to support body weight. Glass or brittle ice will delaminate easily from the underlying rock, leaving only a thin shine and disappointment. A few extreme situations may require a rock climbing bolt anchor at a critical spot or at the rappel.

Now, what about the feet? Crampons or a type of specialized spikes on the feet are necessary when climbing ice. They vary considerably yet perform the same basic functions, platforms to stand on. The front points are employed mostly while climbing steeper ice. They vary from four or five points, sometimes two and occasionally a mono point. These crampons mount on specialized boots with a purpose built sole, rand and two static lips (front and back), allowing two very firm attachment points. The two lips can to be tightened against the crampon then locked in plsce. The boot and crampon literally become one. I prefer the lightest boot possible. Currently stiff Italian made leather and composite materials offer the best product for the weight. These lightweight boots are generally thinly insulate and suited for warmer conditions (above 15 degrees Fahrenheit). Flexible boots won’t do well while ice climbing. Unlike mostly rubber rock boots or shoes, ice climbing boots provide a necessary platform to stand on while the front points are imbedded. These extremely stiff soled boots, combined with rigid crampons, form a system to support the climber on vertical terrain, removing most of the strain from a realized climbing stance.

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In a great attempt to save himself and the lead climber, the belayer reacted by instantly backing away from the perceived hazard. In all the Chaos, I’ve blocks began to fold crisscross stacking haphazardly. Realizing his arm may be yanked off, the climber released the axe as his hand was violently yanked through a wrist leash, which normally prevented that axe from getting away from him. We don’t know exactly how the climber leaped or fell free at the proper time or survived the 90–100 foot fall. I don’t believe he knows exactly what occured in those few seconds yet he remembers somehow rotating while aiming for the deep snow at cliffs edge. The ice, exploding from its own weight, mostly freed all the ice screws before they interfered with his last moment bid for survival. The belayer escaped with bumps and bruising while they both lived to climb again. The climber needed to recover from several injuries which I believe involved either a broken, dislocated or severely strained arm, back injury and possibly a cut. How either climber avoided death is mysterious to most of us.

These kind of ice climbs can vary in temperature and ice consistently from the base to the summit. Dragging a light rappel rope is not only a good practical idea it’s paramount to safely retreating should circumstances suddenly warrant it.

Ron and I attempted Lincoln Falls three times during the mid nineties. Unfortunately storms, avalanche activity, dangerous climb conditions, falling tons of ice, an eight inch crack suddenly opening just below midway and other factors, prevented our successful ascent. Just the proximity of climbs like this can be formidable. Lincoln lake requires a 5+ mile approach up a 1600 foot gain to top a ridge then an 1100 foot loss to Lincoln Lake. We crossed the frozen lake where we winter camped in a valley highly prone to avalanche activity. The next morning requires an early start, followed by a massive assent then a rappelling descent back to camp. To avoid an additional cold night, climbers and packs must race back along the trail, finishing at a frozen car. In this way it’s possible in two days, if all goes as planned, yet a second winter night is likely, followed by skiing out the third day.

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Many ice climbs show evidence and scaring on the rock and trees around them. Ice climbs are tons and tons of water frozen in place against the force of gravity. When temperatures change so do these massive artistic ice sculptures. They seem so serene, standing alone and quite in unique crannies and nooks against the cliffs, in the isolated places of winter. Don’t be fooled, they can become suddenly dangerous, particularly in the spring just as they melt to a silent hazard. When gravity wins, the tons of ice have no mercy on rock, trees, people or any living thing within a wide perimeter and the slope below. I’ve witnessed a block of ice the size of my Ford pickup crash down a mountain side, uprooting and smashing tree trunks, tumbling rocks the size of fifty gallon drums with ease, dropping over vertical cliffs then plunging through 24 inch ice on a mountain lake below. The freshly scared earth traced the storyline of a fall which had momentarily stopped my breathing. These blocks of ice have no preference or mercy as they crash until they rest. Cars would be flattened in the path of such an event, bridges broken beyond repair. Human reaction can be fast, yet once in the path of these enormous ice blocks, one may not know what’s occurring until time is shorter than your escape route. While I enjoy climbing such temporary structures, I also realize I’m temporary held hostage, anchored by ice screws a climbing rope and hardware designed not to fail until extreme limits have been overcome.

The following year, the water volume had increased so the pillar seemed well formed as the water gurgled down inside its neck. I gave the pillar a run for the money. As I climbed it became obvious the ice thickness decreased as the cone’s neck narrowed. 2/3 way up, the ice became thin enough the water was easily visible snaking back and forth within. One carefully placed pick swing punched inside, revealing the neck stood only due to about 2 inches of glass ice. Sudden realization hit, tons of ice were balancing under my feet, shudders worked down my spine. Backing carefully down six feet, I considered tiptoe to the top. Suddenly the monolith answered, groaning, cracking loudly twice. The hollow tube began filling with water rather than flowing out the bottom. Definitely time to retreat. The issue with a retreat is sitting at a safe distance, watching to see if such a free hanging cone will fall over. When the finger of ice still stands after lunch, a climber begins doubting himself.

Most of us understand the obvious environmental differences due to the very nature and season when ice exists. Yet, It’s not only the summer -vs- winter difference you may easily recognize. In rock climbing heat and moisture are your enemies as you begin to overheat and sweat. Your hands become damp, leaving behind a temporary thin greasy slick on which a hand or boot sole can slip. In ice climbing some cold is necessary, yet to much cold obviously requires heavier clothing, boots, and gloves. Add the element of wind driving the wind chill down to unbearable conditions while loading steep slopes above the climb with snow. These “snow pillows” can create avalanches. Risk assessment prior to stepping on a route quickly becomes complicated.

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Solo ice climbing can be an advantage on wildly huge climbs. Ron and I have intentionally solo climbed side by side on easier or really good ice. Moving quickly up ground where we feel very confident, saves time, effort and energy. My brother’s boldness as an ice climbing soloist has produced a few truly inspirational achievements. One such notable solo achievement occurred on a Montana ice climb deep in the Beartooth Wilderness of Montana. The grand 10,000+ foot plateaus hold melt snow which combine with seeps to form a massive ice flow on cliffs towering 2000 feet or more from the valley floor. One such ice climb, formerly known as California Ice, is as impressive as any continuous and massive formation in the lower 48 states. This 150–300 foot broad by 2460 foot high, glacier like formation, holds hundreds of thousands of tons of water ice. All that mass eventually falls every spring only to rebuild itself the next year. Standing below such an ominous mass can be as unnerving. A climber feels about like an ant looking up the leg of a 7 foot tall basketball champion. The massive scale of such a climb in Montana is only rivaled by Lincoln Falls above Lincoln Lake in Glacier National Park.

Mostly, we self belay so to say, as previously discussed. This requires the element of safety to be imposed upon tool and foot placement focus while ice screws, other anchors, ropes and the belay are a backup to survivability. Mixed climbing on extremely steep walls offers the advantages of falling away from what may want to grab all the sharp points. On most ice climbs, I’ve never really fallen far or required the backup system, UNLESS avalanches were involved. A rope attached to bomb proof anchors has definitely saved the day multiple times as an avalanche struck. These have varied from intermittent ice, snow and rock blasts to heavy scree whiteouts to full scale powder events involving a mountain side of snow which settles like concrete. The first rule of avalanche avoidance is being highly aware of conditions you may encounter at your current elevation all the way to a ridge or summit (whatever exists above the climb). We’ve climbed many first assents on ice and rock.

A climber here in Montana once rode out such an event. He was nearing the top of a free hanging pillar of ice, high in Hyalite Canyon near Bozeman. I remember he Wes eagerly ascending this freestanding tower just after it rarely formed. All seemed stable, until his perfect axe swing at the precise height cracked the 30 inch thick neck through and through. He felt the ice suddenly tilt, then in a massive, momentary twisting action began groaning cracking at various heights. In an attempt to save himself, he swung wildly at the remaining ice, still attached to the overhang above. The tool did stick yet he was attached to a climbing rope which was intermittently anchored to the blocks of ice falling below.

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The seeking, locating new ice climbs followed by an initial attempt can be the most dangerous due to unknowns. Many of our first ascents have been found in the backcountry in terrain where people never or rarely travel. Some seemingly innocent areas hide deep secrets about instability during long winter months. Most avalanche terrain can be easily recognized by wide open shoots, devoid of trees which end in massive brush piles containing twisted deformed tree trunks. There are the hidden zones where a wide open or sparsely tree studded slope can hold dangerous layers of various snow. I’ve encountered several such areas where only the missing tree branches at a uniform height whispered the danger. Twice in Yellowstone Park we descend into steep canyon country while keeping a shortened rope and tree trunks between us. On both occasions the snow seemed to hold well until reaching a trigger point where slabs suddenly sheared hundreds of feet across. The ten foot deep snow cracked loudly then thundered as it broke apart into a block avalanche, racing out from under us, only the trees and rope preventing us from sliding with it. As that mass dropped 150 feet off cliffs far below, it consumed the entire drainage, vibrations starting new avalanches, blocking an entire creek, only our steep frozen destination visible. Frozen ground met us as we dangled precariously above the remaining scene. Ground so slick and hard footholds seemed impossible without crampons. Careful delicate work returned us to the edge of that lip, wiser, shaky and awestruck at a natural trap waiting for any unwary traveler.

Some overhangs with a creek falling over them produce hollow tubes or inverted cone type ice climbs. These can be really challenging depending on the temperature, water flow, height, thickness of ice and stability of the ground it may sit on. It’s possible to climb on very thin 1 1/2 inch to yards thick cone ice. These wonders usually have water flowing through them and ice type can vary wildly from one year to the next. Thin ice is basically unprotected climbing, I recommend a top rope where practical. Thicker ice can accept ice screws, although beware. Cones can be impossibly fragile, even downright scary fragile. One such cone comes to mind, which exists on Mount Barrington in Yellowstone Park near Silver Gate and Cook City. The first pitch winds its way up and around several cliffs. The shorter second pitch is quite hidden, exiting around the top of a limestone knob. During our first attempt, the upper pillar or cone was entirely formed of icicles, glued together by more ice, leaving thousands of holes hollowing out the core. This looked promising at first, a climber could theoretically hook tools into the holes while climbing , running slings around larger icicles for protection. My brother gave it a first try, finding the cold brittle ice wanted to easily crack and shatter. Protection became doubtful at best, this became worse just past the halfway point. The entire 120 foot towering cone cracked in two, settled, then tipped a few degrees, as if straining to completely detach to fall over. A hasty retreat became the only option.

Boot warmth has to be considered. I own a series of various boots and gators (leggings) which fit the situation. My heaviest or warmest boots are a two piece double boot (inner plastic and leather while the outer boot is all plastic and carbon fiber (packed with very lightweight technical insulation). These boots are 100% waterproof, particularly when overlayed with a tight fitting Gore-Tex gator. Gators come in several weights as well, single, double, insulated and super insulated. Some technical boots have a built in gator system which reduces weight and the complexity of putting them on. These boots are well suited for multiple day, week even month expeditions. They become especially important on high altitude, low oxygen mountains where every effort is gladly simplified.

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Usually a small pocket remains where the very tip of the axe stopped penetrating. On easier, low angle climbs a second swing can be just enough to gently tap into the hole, as if hooking into it, moving up then swinging the opposite axe. As the angle increases these placements commonly wont feel secure, necessitating a second or third swing. These forces are relatively proportional to the angle of the ice. Here, complex problems develop. The inner ice can be warmer ice, yet only temporarily. Extreme cold will flash freeze any warmth from the ice long before the second climber arrives. Additional pick impacts may stick or they may fracture even deeper into the ice. After several swings the axe will normally stick yet this uses energy up in a compounding amount. The second and any other climbers a e better served hooking I’ve epics into the existing holes left by the leader and removed I’ve screws. Ice screws can fracture the ice as well, a climber may be forced to swing one or two times to create a place for the screw, using up even MORE energy. Placing screws in extremely cold temperatures, containing glass ice, can be problematic with a heavier gloves. Hand dexterity diminishes through heavy layers or while fingers become less than completely warm. Basically everything takes more time, more energy is needed and the danger level can escalate beyond a comfortable risk level.

Boots and crampons can have the same issues as placing picks or screws in glass ice. The key is in spacing axe placements so the feet can use the same spot and/or holes. This energy conservation becomes extremely important during long, multi-pitch climbs or all day, technical mountaineering routes. The climber(s) following a glass ice route tend to have difficulties differing the leaders. The ice fractures may gradually creep under stress, creating an unstable environment where swinging picks and kicking boot toes only continue shattering the ice. In this case it’s far better to gently hook picks into existing holes while gently tapping crampon points into those same holes.

Ice has properties which can drive the grade and rating of a climb up or down. The best ice conditions I shall refer to “warm ice” while the coldest ice conditions I’ll refer to as “glass ice.” Warm ice accepts a swinging tool (pick) quite readily without any second thoughts about the stability or swinging that axe a second time. Most climbers know they can rely on that placement as well as any ice screw (used as a temporary, protective anchor much like a rock climbing bolt). While leading, I’ve commonly used up every ice screw then belayed my parter using two slightly opposing ice tools as belay anchors (my right and left hand axes). Climbing on warm ice can be be rather fast and exhilarating, as it should be! Warm ice can become unstable during mid day as temperatures rise above freezing. Predicted 25 degree, sunny days may require very early approaches to facilitate first light starts on multi pitch ice climbs. The orientation of a slope containing the climb has to be considered. Obviously a South exposure will deteriorate quickly where a North exposureay be stable all day long. This is true of avalanche terrain as well! The top of an ice climb, close to the spring providing a water source, may become outright slush (ground water seeps out warmer than ice). Out in the direct sunlight ice loses strength rapidly, not able to be used fora rappelling retreat (referred to as rotten ice). Ice screw placements do not like to remain tight for long in warm ice due to their warmer initial temperature. The subtle heat can be gained from the warming air, solar energy contacting metal surfaces and the rope. Screws then quickly begin melting the ice they contact. When a thin water layer forms the ice melts even faster. Occasionally ice screws gradually walk out of the ice by themselves! Speed can be safety during in any type of climbing, provided the gear is used properly.

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While ice climbing, falls compound the danger. Just like rock climbing, good protection, avoiding a collision with any low angle ledge, tree, person or object reduces injury risk. An ice climber will be carrying two axes with nasty points, possibly an adze or hammer head added and eight to twelve extremely dangerous points under each foot. Not only are these sharp objects menacing during a fall, they can suddenly grab or dig into the ice, exposed rock, head of an ice screw or climbing partner. Something will give, break, slice, dice, die or suffer mutilation. Severely injured ankles and wrists lead the injury list, followed by back, neck and head injuries (even while wearing a helmet). These types of injury can ruin a season or climbing career instantly. We have always climbed with the “No Fall Necessary” mindset.

Ice climbing can be a roadside attraction. A falls isn’t necessary to form ice. In fact the best climbs typically form where a constant slow trickle is found. During summer months this wetness may never be visible or it may simply leave a dark dampness down the cliff. To find new climbs one simply needs to follow the moisture up to cliffs. Many seeps, drips or trickles won’t show on a map or Google Earth, yet the likely terrain should be where you ultimately look. Hidden ice climbs grow in the shadows, where only snowmelt may provide the necssary moisture. Benches above cliffs are great indicators as are small seasonal ponds. Some very steeply cascading streams can produce fun and amazing places to practice. Just be wary of thin spots where a boot or entire leg may punch through. Filling a boot with ice water on a winter day can become miserable!

Obviously ice can become too soft yet it’s the harder ice which really becomes problematic. As the surface of ice cools it condenses itself into tighter and tighter crystallized patterns. These structures remain relatively strong and stable yet they eventually turn a corner, becoming very brittle which fractures quite easily. Super cooled ice conditions are miserable, this ice develops during extended periods (as in weeks) below zero degrees Fahrenheit. These conditions require either a very gentle flicking pick placement (dubious at most) or multiple harder swings to achieve a solid pick placement within a two foot bowl shape. I call the fracturing of this ice “dinner plating.” A swing to the ice surface often fractures a circle of ice which either falls away immediately or as the tool is removed to swing again. The ice changes color on iMac, indicating fracturing beneath the surface. These conditions will affect ice screw placements as well, usually requiring multiple pick swings to access better ice deeper within. The resulting falling ice plates can knock a foot loose, cut webbing, ropes and clothes, impact ice screw placements while creating a really bad day for the belaying climber far below. I’ll forever wear a surgical like scar only visible across my chin when I’m sun burnt. Extremely large glass ice plates, driven by wind, have been known to detach an arm or leg just as easily a samurai sword can, hence the very name “glass ice.”

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The third and successful attempt occurred that same year. The ice had partially fallen after we left yet new ice grew upon the original base. Now glued together with large, dangling icicles growing in various locations behind, the tower looked very stable. Ron and I finally succeeded in climbing that tower of freestanding ice. Trees in the slot behind this spectacle provided solid rappel anchors. I scurried down the cone first then Ron descended. As he passed the thinnest point the ice cracked inside once again We reached a realization, this neck of ice just moves a lot. Always settling, attempting to find stable footing on deep snow as its weight grows daily.